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Stanwick Footpaths Recommended map : Ordnance Survey ‘Explorer 304’ Darlington & Richmond’ 1 : 25 (4 cm to 1 km) The
Brigantian fortifications at Stanwick St John entirely surround and
dwarf the tiny village. They form a huge enclosure, about 7 km (4
miles) round and 300 hectares (700 acres) in area, within which there
is a settlement site - also fortified - south of the church. Much of
this enormous encampment can be seen (if you can recognise the traces)
looking east from the English Heritage ‘guardianship site’ (a small put
impressive Mortimer Wheeler reconstruction). It’s clearly visible on
the map and is probably the best place to start. First
try to pick out the fortification which continues round to your left
and is marked by the line of trees. It then crosses south east over the
modern road at the Stanwick turn-off and runs down the slope and round
the base of a natural mound (Henah Hill) but the main line continues
away south past Outer Lodge and up to the south-east horizon. There it
turns west and follows the line of distant trees right along the south
horizon; now out of your view, it crosses the Forcett to Gilling road
and finally turns back north again down the East Layton to Forcett road
(within the boundary wall of Forcett Hall park), crossing it just
before the village and swinging back up to the Heritage Site. Walk 1 (1 km) Heritage site to Kirk Bridge From
the English Heritage gate cross the road, turn left, and walk a short
distance to the Public Footpath sign on your right. This path crosses
the field diagonally towards Stanwick church tower (if there’s a crop
you can walk round the edge, first left and then down) to a stile and
gate in the hedge. NOW Careful;
if the ground is soft you must circle out from the stile to the
beck and along it to the left before heading towards the west end of
the churchyard wall in the corner, where there are a couple of metal
steps up to the churchyard. The path leads up to the church and down to
the Lych Gate. Walk 2 (3 km circular) Kirk Bridge - Kirk Bridge Start
on the bridge (near the Lych Gate) and follow the marked bridle path
right (south-west) running up from the stream across the field. This is
known as the Tofts (‘tofts’ means a settlement) where successive
excavations beginning in the 1960s and continuing into the 1990s have
uncovered Brigantian (iron age) round houses and unusually rich Roman
imported ware, implying strongly the presence of high status dwellings
in the first century AD. as well as much earlier occupation.
At the SW top corner of the Tofts a view back towards the church shows
more artificial humps and hollows as well as 'rigg and furrow' below
over to the right beyond the farm buildings. The small hexagonal
building was a Victorian ice-house and deer shelter. (The ice house is
a rectangular brick-lined cavity under the ornamental deer shelter, and
has been investigated recently; its date is unclear but it was probably
built and covered with the mound about the end of the eighteenth
century). Your path now cuts through at a new gate between the old
estate wall on the left and the overgrown ‘Duchess’s Walk’ heading NW
which you may detect is another part of the earthwork. (The Duchess
concerned was Eleanor of Northumberland who built it in the late
nineteenth century as a romantic stroll amongst statuary.) Continuing
along the bridleway, follow the estate wall until a clear track
branches west (to your right) leading up towards some trees (High House
lane) from the highest point of which you can get the best view of the
entire enclosure before dropping down to the Forcett to Gilling road. At
the road turn left and walk uphill and south until you again encounter
the earthwork; here the ramparts cross the road; their line can be
traced by following - with the eye - the hedge and line of trees to the
right as far as the Forcett estate wall to the west, and then north,
back towards the Heritage site. Take
the path left through the farm gate and follow it eastwards along the
inner side of the ditch with good views to the north up into the high
ground on the far side of the Tees valley in County Durham. You will
pass a twist in the ramparts (possibly a southern entrance), and then
the path crosses them to the south side. Continue to the east for half
a mile, keeping the old Stanwick Park dilapidated estate wall on your
left, and then turn north after the ditch following the wall and then
cutting off the corner of the field when you come out at a stile on the
road to Aldbrough. Here
you can return either by the partly asphalted and gated farm track in
past Outer Lodge to the Stanwick village asphalted road or by the main
road down to the bridge, after which another public footpath meanders
left along the beck past the Henah Hill entrenchments back to your
starting point. Note Walking
on the mounds themselves is not encouraged and none of the public
footpaths follows their line precisely. If you have particular reasons
for investigating the embankments other than at the Heritage site, you
are advised to make a request to the farmer concerned or of English
Heritage itself. Please
follow the Countryside Code: leave no litter, close all gates behind
you, keep all dogs firmly on a leash, and take only photographs.
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